Gorgeous gloxinia - home care for an exotic Amazon flower

Love to grow beautiful, showy flowers? Then gloxinia is definitely for you. Caring for her at home is not very difficult. You only need to know a few nuances. But the look of her flowers is just gorgeous. This plant is as if created to decorate a home interior.

Getting to know the flower

Gloxinia, she is syningia, belongs to the Gesneriaceae family. The homeland of cultivated varieties grown everywhere is the Andes, the upper reaches of the Amazon. Here they grow on rocky slopes, sometimes on very steep ones, clinging to them with their roots.

What is interesting about the gloxinia flower? Caring for it assumes a dormant period when only the tuber hibernates. This is due to the climate of the places where the Gesneriaceae grow. Humid and warm in summer, dry to moderately cool in winter.

Video about growing and caring for gloxinia

There have been cases when people bought young shiningia plants. They bloomed beautifully, delighting the owners with their appearance, but died out in the fall, preparing for a dry winter, as it should be. However, the owners of exotic flowers, due to lack of information about the physiology of the Gesneriaceae, believed that the plant was dying. And the remnants of the roots - the tubers were thrown away. Imagine the disappointment when it turned out that it was just a hibernation. In order to avoid such mistakes, let us study carefully the home farming techniques of gloxinia.

We create all the conditions


It is best grown on windows facing west or southwest. For northern windows, sometimes additional lighting is required, for example, with soft fluorescent lamps, especially in winter. For the southern ones, you will need a slight blackout. Frosted glass works best here.

Gloxinia photo

You can also apply tinted films to windows, such as those used by car enthusiasts. Just pick one that transmits light, just slightly diffuses, and does not suit the twilight in the room. The fact is that the wild relatives of Gloxinia love sparse tropical forests, preferring to avoid both open space, where everything is roasted under the southern sun, and the twilight of the Amazonian Selva.


Our flowering tuber loves moderation in everything. So irrigation cannot be organized according to the principle: there is never too much water. Watering is necessary based on temperature conditions. In summer, in hot, dry weather, we water more often and more abundantly. In winter, we significantly reduce watering. It is also designed not only to maintain the soil hydrobalance, but also to match the natural conditions. Where cultural gloxinia come from, much more rain falls in hot summers than during a pronounced dormant period in winter. Again, when watering the flowers, make sure that the next watering is done when the topsoil in the pot dries slightly. The plant can tolerate relative dryness, for this it has a reserve of moisture in the tuber. But waterlogging is fraught with the development of putrefactive processes in the tuber and the lower part of the stem.

In the photo gloxinia

Water with water warmer than the ambient temperature. This ensures its better absorption by the root capillaries. Also, make sure the water has a low hardness. Its Ph is preferred to be neutral. If you use tap water, then you need to defend it for some time.

Gloxinia is also demanding on the humidity of the premises. Especially in summer. Spray it every week with a spray bottle.

All about the soil

The classic soil composition recommended for shiningia is as follows:

  • 2 parts of leaf humus;
  • 2 hours of meadow chernozem;
  • 1 tsp peat;
  • 1 teaspoon of gray river sand.

In the photo, the primer for gloxinia

This composition provides the lightness and nutritional value of the soil. Do not forget to sterilize the soil before planting our tubers there. The sand must be calcined by sprinkling it in a small layer on a sheet in the oven. The soil can be steamed. To do this, pour it into an enameled bucket, fill it with a liter of water, close it with a lid, and put it on a slow fire. Thus, almost all possible pathogenic microflora, brought by us from fields and forests, perishes.

However, with such a severe heat treatment, most of the useful soil microflora also perishes. The substrate practically becomes lifeless, which is why the applied fertilizers will be absorbed little. For these purposes, we enrich the soil with mixtures of effective microorganisms. These drugs can be bought in a variety of flower shops or ordered. Such organisms colonize your substrate, thereby recreating the natural microflora, but without harmful microbes. This method is costly in terms of time and effort, but extremely effective.

An interesting idea to mix soil with hydroponics. This is very convenient for maintaining a stable soil moisture, helps its greater aeration, assimilation of nutrients. The hydrogel works like a sponge. During watering, it absorbs moisture, swelling. And then, as the surrounding soil dries up, it gradually gives off what it has absorbed. Thus, the roots do not suffer from stressful conditions caused by either strong moisture or excessive drying. It is better to use a hydrogel in German, French or Russian. It is sold as a dry concentrate in the form of fine granules. Take it in large volumes, it is profitable.

One kilogram of dry hydrogel can absorb 300 liters of water.

We dilute it with water, wait a few hours, when it is well saturated. You can immediately fill in with liquid fertilizer complexes. You will end up with jelly-like little pieces. We mix them with soil at the rate of one to two, no more. That's it, our modern substrate is ready. Now you can not be afraid that you will forget to water the plants in time, as the soil will contain an additional source of moisture. Drying with insufficient moisture, the hydrogel shrinks to its original size. But then it immediately recovers, absorbing moisture when it comes in again.

In the photo is a gloxinia flower

How to care for gloxinia in the fall-winter period

Let's start from the end, that is, with preparation for wintering, because this is the most crucial moment in caring for our ward.

The monsoon nature of the natural growing conditions suggests that the plant needs a dormant period every year. It sheds its leaves in the fall, most of the roots die off. Only the tuber remains, due to which the gloxinia survives the winter calm.

Gloxinia care in the fall after active vegetation is as follows:

  1. Gradually reduce watering to zero. If you are using a hydrogel in your substrate, you can stop watering right away. The remaining moisture will be absorbed from the hydroponics by the roots until its supply is completely depleted.
  2. We stop feeding at the same time as watering - from mid-September.
  3. Don't use hydroponics - cut back on watering gradually, you still don't have a cactus.
  4. The wintering plant is either not removed from the pot, or stored in the lower vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

The first option is simpler, but not possible in all apartments. Cool, dark closets or insulated cellars that remain relatively cool in winter are best suited for this. Optimal wintering conditions: cool 5-15 ° C, light humidity, darkness.

In the photo gloxinia on the windowsill

The living conditions dictate the following actions to take care of gloxinia:

  1. From mid-September, we reduce watering, exclude feeding;
  2. After the leaves dry out, cut it off with a sharp knife, leave it about a centimeter from the ground;
  3. After two weeks, we take it out of the soil, clean it of lumps of soil, remnants of roots. Put in a bag with slightly damp sand;
  4. All this, without closing tightly, is placed on the lower shelf of the refrigerator;
  5. From time to time we take out a bag of tubers, check for festering, moisten as needed. We store in this way until spring.
  6. Found putrefactive processes, carefully cut to healthy tissue. The cut site must be disinfected, preferably with crushed charcoal. We let it dry slightly, after which we again send it to winter.
  7. Our tubers wake up in the spring from late February to mid-April.

Gloxinia photo

Care after waking up from winter sleep

So, the beginning of the growing season. When shoots have appeared, remove, clean from sand, rinse the tubers under running water. You can make them a short-term bath from a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Especially if there was rotting or rotting in winter or you are planting a purchased tuber for the first time, then such a dressing is required. Use drugs containing fludioxonil.

We prepare the above described substrate. We pour expanded clay, soil. We fill half of the pot. We put the tuber in the center. We fall asleep so that the place where the sprouts came from looks out above the surface. This will prevent decay. Subsequently, we add earth so that the tuber is completely hidden under the ground.

Water often, but in moderation. After two to three weeks from planting, we begin to feed. Gloxinia differs little from other flowers in terms of preference for fertilizers. It responds well to nitrogen compounds with growth.

Basic feeding:

  • Before flowering, we give mainly nitrogen, alternating with small doses of potash and phosphorus compounds.
  • Shortly before and during flowering, we increase the dose of phosphorus, decreasing the nitrogen. Phosphorus contributes to the good development of peduncles.
  • After the first flowering, we focus on potash fertilizers. They help the tuber to ripen better, to stock up on nutrients.

Fertilizer photos

In addition to the main ones, we give complex microelements. It is better to fertilize more often using a weaker concentration of fertilizers. About twice a month. Do not water dry soil. This can cause root burns. So we fertilize after watering.

We monitor the temperature regime. In summer, gloxinia loves warmth, But it does not tolerate heat and stuffiness well. Loves airing, but is intolerant of drafts. The most optimal temperature for the spring-summer growth of Siningia is +25 degrees.

House air is often too dry for flowers in summer. It can also depress flowers. We spray them in the evening or when the sun goes to the other side of the house. We use warm, about forty degrees, water. It is advisable that the spray gun sprays moisture like fog, and not pour out in small streams.

If you follow these rules, shiningia will delight you with healthy green leaves and lush flowers. However, sometimes it happens that the leaves begin to turn pale, turn yellow. This is chlorosis - a lack of chlorophyll. Its reasons may be different. It can be caused by insufficient supply of micronutrients to the roots or have an infectious cause. We get rid of it by spraying and watering the plant with a 2% solution of ferrous sulfate. Much less often plants are affected by fungal diseases and parasites. They are easily treated with fungicides and insecticides. It is worth noting that the preventive treatment of the substrate by sterilization and the tubers by soaking in potassium permanganate practically negates the possibility of such an infection.

In the photo, gloxinia on the window

Follow the above guidelines and your gloxinia bush will bloom soon.


Flowers are the main decorative value. From the beginning of growth, green shoots develop from overwintered tubers until mid-May, and a peduncle is laid. Usually flowering is long, long lasting. But it happens that by the end of June, gloxinia has faded. What to do to get the plant to bloom again. Indeed, before the rest period is even more than three months.

After the flowers wither, cut the stem slightly above the first pair of leaves. We give additional top dressing, increasing the dose of nitrogen fertilizers. This is to stimulate the growth of a new peduncle. After a while, several small shoots begin to grow from the cut site at once. We leave a couple of the strongest ones. They open their buds shortly thereafter. The onset of the second flowering is shorter than that of the first. But the flowers are smaller, less bright.

Gloxinia care video

It often happens that after the first flowering, lateral shoots are formed near the ground. Then we completely cut off the old stem, letting the most powerful grow out of the stepsons. It will bloom very soon.

And there are varieties of gloxinia that bloom twice without any pruning. As well as those that are generally not capable of re-flowering, no matter how you stimulate them to do so. And care for gloxinia after flowering consists in timely watering, spraying, continuation of fertilizing, but already excluding nitrogen fertilizers. Now she is already accumulating strength for winter sleep.

Aglaonema leaves turn yellow what to do

Aglaonem flower Is one of the ornamental indoor plants that is becoming more and more popular with gardening enthusiasts. In principle, this plant is unpretentious and does not require special care. But she also has standard floral problems such as yellowing of the leaves. In addition, the shower can be deformed and change color to painful. And this means that the flower is sick or you made a mistake in leaving. domisad.org

Why do the leaves of Aglaonem flower turn yellow?

The main reason for yellowing is low air temperature. Or cold and draft coming from the window in the winter. Aglaonema loves warmth.

Attention! If the frozen plant is also watered more than it should be, the plant may die altogether.

What to do? The first thing you need to do to solve the problem is to put the plant in a warm place and stop watering it until the soil is completely dry. That's all the treatment.

By the way, sluggish leaves, as well as if they dry out, can be a symptom of hypothermia. But pale leaves indicate that the flower does not have enough fertilizer, and this is not related to the cold temperature.

The second reason why Aglaonema leaves can turn yellow is direct sunlight. Aglaonema loves diffused sunlight and room temperature water.

Good to know - Aglaonema flower loves soft water, and if you have problems with this plant, try softening the water for irrigation with citric acid.

Attention! If the lower leaves of Aglaonema turn yellow, then this is a natural abscission of the lower leaves and their aging.

If you need more information about this plant, visit our page: Indoor flowers from A to Z

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Don't forget to read the comments! You can also find a lot of useful information there. And also, add your own, it is possible to attach a photo or picture.

Gloxinia: when to clean for the winter?

Gloxinia is a very beautiful and very common indoor flower. Throughout the summer, it is in an active state, blooming with large velvety flowers, somewhat shaped like a bell. But with the arrival of autumn, they fall off, the plant enters a dormant phase.

Not everyone knows that this plant is one of the few that requires special care in the cold season.Gloxinia for the winter, as it were, falls asleep, and it must be prepared for this. In autumn, the flower slows down, its leaves begin to turn yellow. The buds are no longer forming. These are all signs that the plant is beginning to fall asleep.

Gloxinia comes to this state gradually.

As soon as these signs appear, it is necessary to begin to "lay" the flower. Gloxinia is removed for the winter in a dark, humid place. But before that, the leaves are cut off at the root. The optimal time for this is mid-November.

Autumn care - how to keep gloxinia until spring

In November or December, when the plant stops blooming, you need to stop watering and move it to a dry and dark place.

In the place where the flower will be stored, there must be good ventilation and the temperature regime of the air should be from 12 to 14 degrees.

After the dying off of the above-ground part, it must be removed, leaving a small trunk one centimeter in size. The flower has a dormant period.

Before sending a flower for a dormant period, its tubers must be cleaned of the ground, rinsed thoroughly in cold running water and dried. If it is poorly dried, the decay process will be inevitable. The prepared composition must be placed in a regular plastic bag and the tuber should be placed in it. It is necessary to store the container with the tuber in a cool and dark place.

How to store gloxinia tubers

Storing gloxinia tubers in pots

I store most of the gloxinia tubers during hibernation in the same pots in which they grew. I don't get the tubers out of the soil. I put pots with gloxinia tubers in cardboard boxes. Until the winter season 2008-2009, the boxes with the pots were constantly in the apartment, because I did not have any cool room where the boxes with the pots could be taken out.

In winter, the apartment has a high temperature (+26 degrees) and very dry air, for this reason, I watered the soil in pots with stored tubers two or three times a month. It is very important to ensure that the soil in the pots does not dry out, because the gloxinia tubers in the dry soil wrinkle and become soft, and this leads to the death of the tubers.

Since autumn-winter 2008-2009, I have been storing gloxinia tubers on an insulated balcony. By fully or incompletely opening the balcony door to the apartment, I regulate the temperature on the balcony so that it is +16 - +18 degrees. With such cool storage conditions for tubers, I water the soil in pots about twice a month.

Storing tubers in zip-lock bags

The best and most reliable way to store gloxinia tubers during dormancy. Try it!

You can successfully store dormant gloxinia tubers in transparent plastic bags with a zipper. Such bags come in different sizes and density of cellophane. Usually sold in kiosks with disposable tableware.

If you cannot get zip bags, you can store the tubers during the dormant period in simple small plastic bags. Tie the bag instead of a zip closure.

At the bottom of the bag, put 1 - 2 tablespoons of slightly damp peat soil, on it - a nodule. Close the bag with a clasp. Tubers in bags do not need to be watered at all.

NOTE. It is advisable to store gloxinia tubers in plastic bags only in a cool (+12 - +16 degrees) and dark place, because tubers in bags quickly wake up in a warm room. Be sure to put the packages with nodules in a dark place.

How gloxinia behaves at home in winter

For this, several methods are used. At the first, the tubers are left in the pot in which the plant was grown.

It is recommended to cover the top of the pot with a pallet, put the pot in a plastic bag, wrap the edges and put it in a cool place. The tuber can be sprinkled with a layer of river sand.

The disadvantage of this method is the need to check the tubers and make sure that they do not dry out and do not sprout.

When using the following storage method, the tubers are dug up in the fall and placed in a plastic bag with a fastener. According to individual growers, it is necessary to pre-treat with Fitosporin or Fundazol.

Inside the package, vermiculite is poured in half with a substrate or sawdust. It is recommended to put a closed bag in a box and place it in the refrigerator during the winter.

It is advisable to put a thermometer there to control the temperature (it should not fall below 10 degrees).

For preservation, you can take them out of the pot and place them in peat, sand or sphagnum moss. Monthly, you should slightly moisten the substrate with warm water and maintain the temperature up to 12 degrees.

Growing gloxinia from seeds is probably the most difficult and long-term path. To plant seeds, you will need soil:

  • Peat.
  • Dernova.
  • Sheet.

A little sand is added. The resulting mixture is steamed before direct planting. The easiest way is to put it in a perforated bag and steam it in the microwave at high temperature for about 10 minutes.

The seeds are planted in a plastic container, evenly distributed over the entire surface. Then cover with foil. If everything is done correctly, after one and a half, two weeks the sprouts will hatch. Every day, the flower needs to be aired for half an hour.

It does not need frequent watering, thanks to the moisture in the greenhouse. Each time, the ventilation period is slightly extended. After 1.5-2 months, the first leaves will appear, which means you can start picking.

Transplanted carefully (without damaging the root system) in plastic cups. It is recommended to take the sprout with a small amount of soil on the roots.

Vegetative reproduction. Dividing the tubers of Gloxinia

After the dormant period has passed and the shoots formed on the tubers reach 2 cm, they can be divided into parts. It is desirable that on each part there is an escape or a budding bud. It is advisable to sprinkle the place of the cut with charcoal. Dry the slices in air for several hours and plant them in the soil.

Recommended potting mix: 1: 1: 1 (turf, leafy soil, sand). Sterilize the mixture before use. It is desirable that the potting mix is ​​moist. After we have planted the plant in the soil, we do not water it. Water the transplanted plant for the next day. There is no need to feed the plant, we take care of it like an adult plant.

2. Cyclamen

Alpine violet, as this flower is also called, is not inferior in beauty to the desert rose, although it comes from the cool regions of Europe. Nowadays, collectors can get varieties with double flowers. Under the right conditions, cyclamen can bloom almost continuously.

Cyclamen. © Basil D B

For the first time, the plant obtained from the seed actively grows the underground part, and in the third year it forms flower stalks. Caring for it will not be difficult, it is only important to provide the cyclamen with a cool winter - this flower does not like heat and stuffiness.

Rare and unusual

Indoor plants that surprise

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In the era of the Internet and the intensive development of international trade, almost any plant known to mankind can be purchased anywhere in the world. But the plant world is so huge and diverse that it probably never ceases to amaze us with new forms of its representatives. In this section, we have collected materials about indoor plants that stun even seasoned flower growers with their appearance or growing characteristics. This information will be of interest to both those who have been engaged in home gardening for a long time, and beginners. After all, rare and unusual indoor plants are not necessarily capricious and difficult to care for.

Did you know you can grow carnivorous plants at home? Yes, yes, these are carnivorous plants that, of course, will not bite you, but getting rid of mosquitoes can help, because they feed on insects. Of course, this plant is not for everybody, and requires rather greenhouse conditions than indoor conditions, but still they can be grown at home. This heading - articles about the most exotic and unusual houseplants. We try to convey information to our readers as objectively as possible, therefore, if you are a beginner florist, but really want to grow something special at home, pay attention to our advice and do not buy exotic plants that require experience, patience and creation of special conditions from you. Stop your choice, for example, on the Costa Rican skullcap. This is a real potted fireworks display that does not need special attention from the owner. But the Grenada nertera is an unusually beautiful and very rare inhabitant of window sills, because she is very capricious in her care. We would advise her to grow already experienced flower growers. Do you have some unusual plant growing about which we have not yet written about in this section? Share your experience at the Botanichki Forum. We are sure this information will be of interest to our regular readers and authors.

Hippeastrum care

Dishes. Narrow and tall pots are better suited for growing hippeastrum, because in addition to the bulb, the hippeastrum also has roots that are long enough and during dormancy they do not die off, but continue to feed the bulb.

You also need to observe the depth of the hippeastrum planting. The bulb should rise from the ground by one third. And do not try to stuff the pot with earth too much, it is better to wait until it settles itself and fill the earth to the desired height. The size of the pots should not be too wide, it is quite enough if the distance between the wall of the pot and the bulb is only 2-3 cm. In a dish that is too wide, the hippeastrum may not bloom for a long time.

Earth mix: turf soil, peat, sand, humus in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1. Earthen mixture for hippeastrum should be nutritious, water and air permeable with a neutral or alkaline pH-reaction of the soil. Also, don't forget about the drainage layer. Also, when transplanting a hippeastrum, you can use ready-made purchased soil for bulbous.

Lighting. Hippeastrum is a light-loving plant, therefore it is advisable to keep it in the southwestern, southern or southeastern windows. Light can be either direct sunlight or bright diffused light. Hippeastrum hybrids that lose their leaves during dormancy, you can move the pot with the hippeastrum bulb to a cooler and darker place.

Air temperature. Hippeastrum grows well at room temperature. In summer, the usual room temperature is +20 +25 0 C. In winter, the air temperature can be slightly lower.

Watering. At the beginning of winter, in order for the hippeastrum to wake up, come out of the dormant period, it is placed on a light window. During this period, the hippeastrum has no leaves, it is not watered, otherwise the bulb can be easily destroyed. Until the flower arrow appears, the hippeastrum does not need to be watered. After the appearance of the peduncle and before the flower arrow grows up to 7-10 cm, watering of the hippeastrum should be weak, otherwise the leaves will begin to grow to the detriment of the flowers. Watering is best done in a pan or along the edge of the pot, without getting water on the bulb. As the peduncle grows, watering increases.

After the flowering of the hippeastrum, leaves and a bulb begin to grow, new flower stalks are laid for the next year, during this period watering should be regular. By the end of summer, watering stops. At this time, the hippeastrum begins a period of rest. The pot with hippeastrum can be put in a cool place and not watered. If the room temperature is high, you can water it occasionally a little to keep the bulb from drying out. Hippeastrum does not need high air humidity, so it does not need air spraying, it prefers dry content.

Top dressing... The first feeding of the hippeastrum can be done when the height of the flower arrow is about 15 cm. If the hippeastrum was recently transplanted and there are enough nutrients in the soil, the feeding can be done later. When feeding, focus on phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They promote flowering, the accumulation of nutrients in the bulb, the laying of future flower stalks. But it is better to exclude nitrogen fertilizers, they can provoke gray rot, and the plant can be irretrievably lost.

Transfer. 30-40 days after the end of flowering, hippeastrum can be transplanted. An annual transplant is not at all necessary, but in this case, change the top layer of the earth every year, because hippeastrum quickly consumes nutrients from the soil, and this will later affect flowering. You can also transplant hippeastrum before it leaves dormancy, that is, at the end of December.

Rest period. Hippeastrum needs a dormant period in order to bloom annually. It usually runs from late summer to late October. When preparing the hippeastrum for the dormant period from the end of summer, it is necessary to limit watering and feeding. In many hippeastrum leaves completely die off.

Hippeastrum, if desired, can be grown without a pronounced dormant period. Then it needs to be kept all year round on a bright, sunny window in a warm room, watered with warm water as the earth dries, preferably in a pan. With this care, hippeastrum can bloom in autumn in October - November or in spring in March - May. The dark green leaves of hippeastrum remain healthy throughout the year and do not lose their beauty.

Summer content of hippeastrum... In summer, if desired, hippeastrum can be planted in open ground. In the open field, hippeastrum blooms better, the bulb grows rapidly in size, gives many daughter bulbs. In the fall, with the onset of cold weather, hippeastrum is brought into the house.

Reproduction of the hippeastrum. Hippeastrum is easily propagated by daughter bulbs, which are completely identical to the parent plant. Babies larger than two centimeters are separated from the main bulb during transplantation. Young plants bloom in 2-3 years.

But what if some varietal hippeastrum does not form babies? In this case, the hippeastrum can be propagated as follows: cut a healthy bulb of the hippeastrum with a clean and sharp knife into two or four parts so that each lobe has a part of the bottom. Carefully process the slices of the onion with crushed charcoal and dry for two to three days. After the cut has dried, each lobe can be added to a mixture of sand and peat or perlite. It is not necessary to deepen such a bulb, it should simply lie on its bottom on the surface of the earthen mixture.

But you can not completely cut the hippeastrum bulb to the end, but make only deep cuts, so that the bulb is divided into two or four parts, but does not fall apart at all. The sections are likewise processed with crushed coal and also dried for two to three days. After that, the bulb is simply placed on an earthen mixture of sand and peat or perlite. Watering of such bulbs is carried out only through the pallet. After a while, babies appear at the base of the cut onion.

Hippeastrum can be pollinated and propagated by seed. In this case, sometimes a completely unpredictable result is obtained (so to speak, a breeder for himself).

After pollination of the hippeastrum, a seed capsule is formed on the peduncle. In this case, the peduncle does not need to be removed, wait until the seeds ripen. But remember that such a procedure can greatly weaken the bulb, which will further affect flowering again: the flowers will be smaller, or the plant will not bloom at all. An experiment with hippeastrum seeds is good to carry out in the open field, where the bees fly, and the bulb will pick up nutrients from the ground during the ripening of the seeds.

Seeds of hippeastrum are sown immediately after harvest, otherwise they quickly lose their germination. Embedding seeds to a depth of one centimeter, seedlings appear in two to three weeks. Hippeastrum seedlings are photophilous, so place them in a bright place.To make small hippeastrum grow better, you can do top dressing with a weak solution of liquid mineral fertilizers. Young hippeastrum does not need a rest period.

Pests. The main pests of hippeastrum are spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, and onion mites. Pests visible to the naked eye can be removed manually with a sponge or cotton swab dipped in an alcohol solution, after which the plant is repeatedly treated with a solution of actellik, phytoverm or karbofos.

When planting in open ground, do not plant hippeastrum next to other bulbs, for example, lilies, otherwise the hippeastrum may be damaged by an onion mite. The bottom of the bulb begins to rot and gradually the entire bulb rot.

Diseases. One of the most dangerous diseases of the hippeastrum is the red burn of the bulbs, or staganosporosis. At the first detection of red streaks and dots on the bulb of the hippeastrum, cut out all foci of infection to healthy tissue without regret. Trim off all affected leaves and dead roots. All slices and the bulb itself must be treated with phytosporin, foundation, Maxim.

Dry the processed hippeastrum bulb for a week, see if new foci of infection appear. If everything went well, then plant the hippeastrum bulb in a new pot and a new substrate. At first, the minimum watering and only in a tray with solutions of phytosporin, foundation to ensure disinfection. Planting the bulb in this case should be as high as possible, this will allow you to control the condition of the bulb. If everything goes well, then the soil can then be filled up to the desired height. The main thing is to save the onion.

In addition to a red burn, hippeastrum can be affected by anthracnose and fusarium. The treatment is almost the same as for a red burn: removal of damaged tissues, repeated treatments with phytosporin, foundationol, Maxim.

Remember, diseases appear from an incorrectly selected soil mixture, an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, improper watering (too abundant, or water has got into the middle of the bulb), from a lack of light. If the conditions of detention are chosen correctly, then hippeastrum will delight you with its flowering for a long time.

Belamkanda Chinese: cultivation and care

When I first saw this plant during flowering last July, I was struck by the combination of iris leaves with a lily flower. His name - Chinese belamkanda - I was not familiar, but how could I resist the opportunity to grow something new and interesting, especially since its price was low.

This unpretentious plant is also known as the leopard lily. Belamkanda got this name because of the dark orange spots on the flowers. Another name for belamkanda is blackberry lily. Because belamcanda seeds resemble blackberries. There is no longer anything in the world to somehow resemble this plant.

Northern China is considered the homeland of Chinese belamkanda, but at present the plant is distributed throughout China. Moreover, belamkanda is found in Japan, Indonesia, Northern India, as well as in the north of Eastern Siberia. The original habitats include sparse forests, rocky cliffs, the slopes of rice fields, roadsides.

Belamkanda was exported from East Asia and is now grown in our gardens as an ornamental plant with beautiful leaves and graceful flowers.

Chinese Belamkanda is a beautiful perennial plant with a short rhizome and a bunch of gray-green xiphoid leaves, located in one plane, which reach a length of 50 cm.The flowers are reddish or yellowish-orange with dark purple dots, collected in inflorescences in the form of a branched wide brush ... Belamcanda flowers are wide open, reaching 5-7 cm in diameter.

The flowering of Belamcanda Chinese begins at the end of June. - early July and lasts until late August - early September. The life of one flower is very short, its flowering lasts only a few hours. The belamcanda flower opens in the first half of the day, and in the late afternoon it begins to fade with sunset. Its withering occurs in a unique twisting manner. The next morning, new flowers will open. It is in this transience of a flower's life that it has its own special charm, because the very expectation becomes even more desirable, and the next blossoming flower is even more charming.

At the beginning of autumn, in place of the flowers, many seed bolls are formed, about 3 cm long, with thin membranous walls, round, shiny black seeds. When the pods are ripe, they open to reveal shiny black seeds that look like blackberries.

The glossy, black seeds last throughout the winter and are very attractive. For example, belamcanda seeds are used in winter bouquets along with other dried flowers. While the seeds are interesting and very decorative, they are not edible. Belamcanda seeds are highly germinating. Belamkanda reproduces well by self-seeding, as well as by dividing the rhizome in early spring or autumn.

Belamcanda seeds can be sown indoors in February-March... You should know that they need stratification. To do this, a container with planted seeds in moist soil is placed in a polyethylene bag and left in a refrigerator or in a high snowdrift for two to three weeks. If the seeds are not old, then the seedlings will appear right in the refrigerator. Sometimes seed germination can take 1.5-2 months. As soon as the shoots have appeared, they can be placed on the window. When 2-3 true leaves appear, the seedlings need to be cut into separate cups or pots. When the weather is warm outside and the threat of spring frosts has passed, Belamkanda seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the garden.

In open ground, the seeds of Chinese belamcanda are sown in autumn in September-October and in spring in April-June... Plants grown from seed tend to flower in the first year.

Chinese Belamkanda tolerates light partial shade, but the best flowering from the plant can only be obtained in an open, sunny place. Leopard Lily prefers light, moist soil with good drainage and a high humus content. Poorly drained soils, especially during the winter, can kill the plant.

When growing Belamcanda Chinese in indoor conditions as a pot culture, the agricultural technology of its cultivation is similar to the cultivation of amaryllis.

Chinese Belamkanda is rarely affected by pests... On poorly drained heavy soils, belamcanda can get sick with root rot.

Belamkanda Chinese needs moderate watering. Top dressing with full complex mineral fertilizers is carried out during the entire growing season every two weeks. Belamkanda especially needs additional feeding during the flowering period.

Leopard Lily looks great in group plantings on lawns or mixed borders, as well as near water bodies.It can be used to frame small edges or mixed flower beds. Astilba, monarda, coreopsis, rudbeckia, heliopsis will be excellent companions of belamkanda in the flower garden. Belamcanda is also grown as a pot plant.

Over time, the rhizomes of the leopard lily will grow and, so that they do not disappear, they need to be divided. It is best to carry out this operation in the spring or late autumn.

For the winter, Chinese Belamkanda must be covered with dry peat and spruce branches.... However, in areas with a harsh continental climate in a harsh winter, this may not help, so it is best to dig the plant with a lump of earth before the onset of stable frosts, transplant it into pots and keep it indoors during the winter, and plant it again in open ground in the spring. ...

Nowadays, Chinese belamkanda with orange flowers is more available in trade. She prefers open, sunny places. Also in the markets you can find belamcanda flabellata "Hello Yellow" (Belamcanda flabellata) with yellow flowers, which can be planted in light partial shade at the edge of the reservoir.

By planting Chinese Belamcanda in your garden, you will not only expand your collection of perennial plants. Its delicate beauty will add a tropical touch to your landscape, and will also become the object of attention of other flower growers who will constantly ask you the same question: "What kind of plant is this?"

Chinese Belamcanda can be used as a medicinal plant... Dried rhizomes are used to relieve sore throats, coughs, and other respiratory ailments. Research is currently underway for its possible use against prostate cancer. Belamkanda has antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal effects.

A decoction of the dried rhizome of belamcanda can be used as an anti-inflammatory agent, it has a diuretic, laxative effect. A decoction from the rhizome of belamcanda is able to remove toxins from the body and is used as an antidote to poisonous snake bites. As an external medicine it is used for skin rashes, injuries and sprains. However, it should be remembered that at a high concentration, a decoction from belamcanda can be toxic, and its use is possible only under the supervision of a doctor.

Forum reviews

Judging by the numerous Internet forums, there are a lot of owners of the Asian sissy, despite the capriciousness of the plant.

Forum "Otzovik". I am Alena, Yekaterinburg. Writes her admiration for the gardenia bloom. Up to this point, there was already an experience of cultivation, the plant bloomed and flourished before leaving on vacation. During her vacation, household members looked after. The plant did not wait for its owner, it died. Bought again in the supermarket, with a sticker recommending how to care for the flower, I followed all the rules of care, after a long adaptation the plant still bloomed.

Recommend.ru. User TheHelper: Tells that the ways of growing Gardenia are somewhat similar to Azalea, only Gardenia is more resistant than Azalea. She bought a bush at a sale, in a deplorable state. She cut off all the branches, coated it with brilliant green, put it on the brightest but coldest place in the apartment, watered it with acidified water after 3 days. On very hot days, she covered the soil with ice floes, transplanted in a month. In the same year, she bloomed. Dissolves gradually.

Frau Flora Forum. Lisya Tula: She says that her flower is already three years old, stands on the eastern window, blooms and feels good, although the room temperature is never below + 25.

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