Actinidia in my garden


A wonderful liana decorates the house, pumps out moisture from under it and gives delicious fruits

All neighbors or guests who come to our site immediately pay attention to the wall of our house, densely braided with green branches of vines.

And the first question: "Is this your girlish grape?" And we patiently explain that this is actinidia kolomikta, the progenitor of kiwi. Visitors admire: "What a beauty, and even with edible fruits!"

Yes, this liana is very beautiful, and besides its attractiveness, it annually treats us with very sweet fruits with delicate pulp and an unusual aroma - of pineapple, and apple, and strawberry. She is also a champion in vitamin C.


But actinidia kolomikta appeared in our country not at all for the sake of its tasty and healthy fruits. Her primary task was different. We purchased our plot in 1992. It was a forest area on a gentle slope with many thick aspens, birches, bird cherry trees, mountain ash and other trees. All summer we uprooted, cleared the territory, and by the end of August a foundation pit was dug for the foundation of the house.

Since no water appeared in it for a month and a half, we started construction, starting, of course, with the construction of the foundation, not paying attention to the fact that there is a source about 25 meters from this place. And now, in the summer of next year, water appeared from under the foundation, which had to be diverted by making deep drainage around the entire house. The work was done in good faith, and the basement floor became drier, but the problem was not completely solved.

Construction continued, and after a while I came across an article about geopathogenic zones of the earth that negatively affect human health, and in particular, about houses standing above underground water veins. It is in such a place that our site is located. The impression was, to put it mildly, not a pleasant one, but by that time we had already erected the walls of the house, developed almost the entire site, and it was a shame to abandon it all.

They began to take a deeper interest in this question: is everything really so dangerous for the health and even the life of people? The publications came across different, and in the end I found in some magazine a reassuring article on this topic. It said that if your site is located above an underground river, then try to plant as many vertical plants as possible, i.e. lianas, and this, supposedly, will ward off trouble. Grasping this straw, we began to plant vines: Chinese lemongrass, maiden grapes, woodworm, hops, clematis.

And even later, when I read in a book on gardening that actinidia is very fond of water and in general can serve as a powerful pump for draining water from under buildings, I bought a seedling of actinidia kolomikta in the store. True, knowing that this plant is dioecious, I asked the seller: this plant is female or male, because there should be two of them for setting fruit. To which he answered me: we received the seedlings from Holland and, excuse me, there were no marks "m" or "f".

There was nothing to do, I bought it, because my main task was to get rid of water, and the harvest was in second place. We planted her near the house on the south side in well-fertilized soil, and she apparently liked the place, because she grew very quickly. Three years later, it was already a beautiful dense liana, which had risen four meters up along stretched wires.

Our Far Eastern beauty has not yet yielded fruit, although it bloomed, but on the other hand, it surprised us with its spectacular variegation. During the flowering period, small patches appear on the upper side of the leaf in the form of white spots, which later turn pale pink, then crimson and finally green again after flowering. But some white-pink spots remain, and this is extraordinarily beautiful!

Beauty is beauty, but I would like to taste the fruits. And I went for a consultation at the St. Petersburg Botanical Garden, where they told me that the plant is really dioecious, but there are monoecious among the seedlings, and in this case there will be fruits for the 6-7th year, but it is better to insure yourself and plant a male specimen.

I managed to get such a seedling only in August 1998 at the exhibition "Russian Farmer", we planted it to our specimen, which was not yet bearing fruit. Over the summer of the following year, the male specimen grew to two meters, and in 2000 it became even taller and stronger, but there were no flowers yet.

But our actinidia this year not only bloomed profusely, but also gave us the first long-awaited emerald green with dark stripes, from 1.5 to 2 cm long, cylindrical fruits. And they are delicious! Sweet, the skin is thin, the flesh is juicy and melts in the mouth. There are many seeds, but they are small, like those of strawberries, and the taste of the berries resembles pineapple and kiwi.

After that, my actinidia bore fruit every year, and the male seedling from the exhibition was gaining strength, and we did not bother him: let him help pollinate our beauty, and at the same time drink some water from under the house.

Time passed, and suddenly in August 2005 I suddenly noticed full-fledged berries on the male plant. And she was so surprised that she began to look carefully to see if branches were woven from my creepers? But no. It turned out that this plant itself is strewn with fruits. So much for a dioecious plant - miracles, and more! Now we have two huge vines and plenty of these delicious fruits.

True, their number also depends on the strength of the spring frosts. Experts say that if the plants have undergone May frosts, then the foliage will recover due to dormant buds, but fruiting will not come this year. And we have had it so many times that the foliage was partially frozen and even completely blackened, then it was restored, but the fruits were annually.


Apparently, the influence of the southern brick wall, on which it is located, affects, since the house has been heated since the end of April, and the spring sun heats the wall, which gives off heat at night. But in 2004 there were no spring frosts in our area at all, so there were a lot of berries, but they turned out to be smaller than usual.

There is another difficulty - picking fruits at an eight-meter height, so you have to come up with all sorts of structures with the tension of the lutrasil so that the berries fall (and they fall when they ripen) not on the grass, but on the lutrasil. In the morning you come, and there are ripe and clean fruits on it. If you need more of them, then you can shake the vine, collect and make preparations for the winter.

We tried to cook the jam, but it turns out to be too sweet, for the same reason we refused from the raw preparation, but the compote took root in our family. We fill a three-liter jar half with berries, fill it with spring water, and sugar is only 250 g. It turns out a very pleasant, aromatic and tasty compote. Opening such a jar on a winter evening is a pleasure. So our actinidia works 100% - it pumps out water from under the house, decorates our house and plot, strengthens our health with its beneficial fruits, and, hopefully, reduces the influence of geopathogenic zones.

Larisa Egorova,
winner of the "Golden Harvest" horticultural competition

Read also about actinidia
• Formation and pruning of actinidia
• Planting actinidia
• Billets from actinidia
• Cultivation and varieties of actinidia
• Decorative vines of the North-West zone

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Last year the "Luck" potato won the Audience Award in our family.

He gets the opportunity to germinate before everyone else in the conditions of home warmth and comfort, so that in the summer fresh potatoes are shown in full. was on our table a little earlier.

Having carefully examined the seed material selected for storage, I was satisfied.
Some tubers are large for seeds, I will cut them when planting (just during the autumn harvest, I could not resist the temptation to take a piece of especially yielding lashes with exceptionally large tubers, of which I chose the smallest )

I put the tubers in my favorite egg trays and leave them in the light until green shoots appear, then transfer them from home and slightly moisten them to form roots.

I will plant my Luck along with the rest of the potatoes in May, when the earth warms up enough, but I’ll start digging it up first for food, and I’ll plant new tubers in the vacant space, because the second crop of potatoes is a reality in our middle lane (https: // vk.com/wall-165440952_394).

Why would I litter my favorite step-ladder with exotic flowers and interior gadgets, because the next month it can perfectly sprout a winning potato.
So, I have everything in Feng Shui.

I transplant the grown peppers from cramped conditions.

The first "dwelling" of my pepper was very small, so the root system of the growing pepper quickly filled the entire space. Show in full. leaving no free space or forming stagnant zones.
With a teaspoon, I pry the whole clod of earth with overgrown roots and transfer the pepper into a larger container. The integrity of the roots is preserved as much as possible.

Unlike tomatoes, pepper does not form additional lateral roots on the stem, therefore, when transplanting, it cannot be buried. In an effort to make our seedlings more stocky and strong, diligently deepening the elongated pepper, we only immerse part of the stem in the darkness and dampness, thereby limiting the root's ability to develop deeper, uselessly occupying the upper part of the container with the stem buried in vain.

Now my pepper is no longer a baby, but rather a promising teenager - it will get used to it a little with the freedom it has gained and will begin to conquer new territory. .

In a few days I will feed him with potassium humate and I will only water, loosen and turn to the sun.


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Garden club

Good morning friends! For you today, my article on rose diseases. But, first, I want to convey to you my approach to this problem.

There are many different diseases in the garden, why do you need to know all of them? People often write to me: "What is the problem with the rose? Expand text ... And what is it?" What disease? "Etc.
But you need to know and be able to identify and distinguish diseases from pests and ticks. You need to know only the main signs of the main diseases and be able to apply the right drugs.
For all the time of growing roses, I do not know all the diseases and I do not need it.
A little about advice on the Internet. On different sites, you read articles and recommendations, and newbies run quickly to complete everything and most often get a disastrous result.

My dear, advice: you really choose for yourself only recommendations from specialists who have their own gorgeous gardens or advice from scientists who conduct research on experiments. Before taking the advice into consideration, find out how many roses the advisor has and how long the observations on the use of this or that preparation are being conducted.

My garden is 23 years old. Not all places are suitable for growing roses, but I try to create the right conditions for them. 400 roses on 6 acres, you must admit that this requires certain professional knowledge to keep roses beautiful and with clean foliage.

Growing roses in our climate is often associated with disease. Rose growers are trying to understand what kind of disease their rose has and what urgently needs to be done to treat and eradicate the disease.

My approach to this problem is much simpler. In total, roses have more than 250 types of diseases. There are special laboratories that determine by the leaf what kind of disease a rose has. But I believe that an amateur rose grower, and even more so a beginner, needs to know the signs of 5 main diseases. I'll tell you about them.

All other diseases that appear in the garden are not necessary for the gardener to determine. You need to know the basic rules for caring for a plant, then they will not get sick. Therefore, I do not advise to delve deeply into this topic in magazines and books. My garden is proof of this.

When roses are sick, it is usually too late to heal. The rose will still shed the diseased foliage. But you can stop the disease.

Diseases are divided into infectious and non-infectious. The first is from improper and unbalanced nutrition. The lack of one or another nutrient affects the development of the plant. To avoid this, it is necessary to use complex fertilizers, balanced especially for roses. It is good when microelements are included in these fertilizers.

Infectious diseases can be viral, bacterial and fungal. Viral diseases can only be determined in the laboratory by analysis. I do not need this at all and I do not advise you to go so deeply. For 23 years I have come across only two such roses.

But you need to know a little about fungal diseases.

1. Infectious burn. The causative agent is the mushroom Coniothyrium wernsdorffiae. A disease occurs under cover, more often on the sunny side, when the temperature in the shelters in spring exceeds 5 degrees. These are brown spots with a red border. You can often cut out a stain with a sharp knife and sanitize the wound with brilliant green, for example, go with an alcohol solution and cover it with Etisso's live bark. If the spot is ringed with a shoot, then the shoot must be cut and burned. Treat the secateurs with alcohol. The disease is carried by pruners.

2. Black spot. The causative agent is the mushroom Marssonina rosae. A very common disease. There are no drugs that can cope with this fungus. It often occurs in wet weather, when frequent rains and potassium is washed out from the upper layers of the soil. Only prevention, weekly spraying with herbs, infusion of horsetail, mullein, phytosporin can prevent it. If you use strong chemical preparations, of which there are many in our garden centers, then phytosporin and other bio preparations will not work. Tiovit jet, Fundazol, Skor, of course, will help to suspend the development of the disease, but they will not cure the rose at all, the choice is yours. I prefer weekly prophylaxis with harmless herbs.

3. The most harmful disease in roses in my garden is Downy mildew or downy mildew. You all came across it on tomatoes (late blight), on other plants.The causative agent is the mushroom Pseudoperonosporsa. Blood red angular spots appear on the leaves. The leaves are deformed, curled, the buds do not open and gradually turn black and fall off. The next year, the bark on the rose cracks and the bush weakens. The disease occurs during a short-term cold snap after the heat in the spring, and in the fall, when cold rains begin. At this time, I prefer to spray the roses with an infusion of ash, if the disease is started, then I spill preicur under the root. Control measures for this fungus are similar to those for late blight in tomatoes. Mulching the earth, spraying Ridomil Gold, Profit Gold, preparations with mancoceb. There are many popular methods of prevention: solutions of soda, iodine, tea tree oil, milk whey, potassium sulfate. I use copper preparations in the garden only once, with early-spring spraying.

4. The most unpleasant disease for me is Rust.
The causative agent is the fungus Phragmidium disciflorum.
This is one of the most intractable diseases of roses.
Usually rust gets into the garden with new planting material or from neglected rosehip bushes growing nearby. Climbing roses, old roses and species roses get sick more often than others, but starting with them, the disease quickly spreads to others. High humidity contributes to the development of rust. The disease is more common on heavy and moist soils. First, orange pustules appear on the underside of the leaf, then the spots turn black and the leaf falls off. In my garden, I successfully use Falcon exactly according to the instructions and alternate it with Bravo fungicide.
Since once with new roses I brought this disease into the garden, prevention in early spring is mandatory in my garden.

At the first opening, I treat the roses with Ordan, Hom, Oxyhom. The next treatment with the full opening of roses, in May, with Falcon. It is a systemic fungicide of prophylactic, curative and eradication action. Active ingredients: tebuconazole, triadimenol, spiroxamine. Thanks to its three components, it has a wide spectrum of action, and the risk of addiction to the drug is low.
I use the drug Bravo alternating with other drugs. This drug, in addition to rust on roses, copes well with diseases such as peronosporosis, alternaria, late blight. The effect of the drug is due to the fact that chlorothalonil, which is part of it, stops the development of pathogenic microbes at the stage of spore germination, which, in turn, allows the plant to expend energy on the production of healthy foliage and fruits. Fungicide BRAVO is compatible with a large number of drugs.

5. Powdery mildew of a rose. The causative agent is the mushroom Sphaerotheca. A white powdery bloom appears on young leaves and they curl. Often formed when there is a lack of watering and low air humidity. This disease is absent in my garden as I provide good watering for the roses. For Powdery Mildew, if it is in a state of neglect, the drugs Topaz, Tiovit Jet, Skor help.

Remember that it is easier to provide roses with good conditions and carry out preventive measures than constantly treating and smelling diseased roses treated with chemistry.

Thus, friends, you need to have only a few drugs that can be used prophylactically and at the first signs of illness, you do not need to panic and immediately try to determine the disease. Any stains on the leaves must be removed and the garden treated with one of the named fungicides or preventive treatments carried out regularly.
In recent years I have been able to keep the garden healthy.

I increase the protective mechanism of roses with a system of dressings and with the use of fortifying herbal preparations. With proper agricultural technology, roses become strong, disease-resistant, grow well, bloom and winter.


Watch the video: Hardy Kiwi - Easy Propagation Technique


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